Interbike 2010 Guide – new stuff from Dirty Vegas

I love Interbike and reconnecting with old friends; but from the second the plane touches down in Vegas, I can’t wait to leave! I just feel like I need to take a shower after being there. It’s an interesting dichotomy.

So, that said – Interbike was a pretty good show this year; in spite of noticeably lower attendance and fewer vendors. (I think I actually walked the whole show floor this year – a first in 8 years of attending the show.) The “down” economy only seemed to dampen the turnout; because there was still plenty of innovation present. New wheels (including the one I’ve been waiting 2 years for; the WH-7850-C50-CL) and Ultegra 6700 from Shimano; Reynolds new carbon clincher rim and lower price points; Sram XX; Zipp’s 101 aluminum aero clincher (a new personal favorite); all sorts of new clothing and shoe ideas; and of course – plenty of super light carbon frames.

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Those of you who’ve been following my blog for a while (thanks for being so loyal, mom…) know that I’ve never done a great job of reviewing Interbike. So this year, I’m leaving it to the professionals. They’re much better at it than I am (and they tend to take their cameras…). So consider this your short-cut to the reporting on Interbike. The links below include just a few of the things I saw at the show that I thought were interesting. Thanks for reading.

Velonews:
-Reynolds, Cannondale, Orbea, Kestrel, Scott, Rue/Shimano, Fuji
-Dt Swiss, Camelbak, Titus, 2XU
-Storck, Reynolds, Hed, SwissStop, San Marco, MetriGear, Ford
-Diadorra, Time, Pearl Izumi
-Brooks, Pedro’s, Luna, Crank Bros, Miche, Topeak, Cateye, Kenda
-Reynolds, Easton Bell Sports, Light and Motion
-Outdoor Demo 1 and Outdoor Demo 2

CyclingNews:
-Yeti, Avid

-Moots, The Hive
-Cannondale Simon Lefty Fork
-Adam Craig’s Giant TCX Carbon Cross bike
-Shimano shoes, pedals, wheels, tools, MTB components

BikeRumor.com:
-Redline BMX, 29er, and Cyclocross bikes
-Quarq power meters
-SwissStop Brake Pads
-Giant TCX Carbon Cyclocross
-3T Road, Tri, and MTB components
-SRAM brake levers

-DT Swiss Tricon Tubless Wheelsets
-Avid Shorty Ultimate Canti Brakes

Climbing tips, tricks, and advice

Again, bikeradar.com comes up with a gem of an article. If you’re not making this website a part of your regular cycling-related web-surfing you are missing out on some seriously cool stuff.

Link to the article:

Technique: Hill climbing made easy

The title makes a big promise – one which is difficult if not impossible to deliver on. Especially when you consider that the conventional wisdom among experienced cyclists is that climbing never gets easier; it’s just that some are able to suffer at a higher rate of speed. None-the-less, there is some value in the information within.

I also remember an article that appeared on one of the major cycling websites a couple of years ago, featuring Davis Phinney with some great climbing advice as well. I know it is hard to believe that you’d get good climbing advice from America’s most successful sprinter (although Tyler Farrar is doing his best to try to unseat Davis), but after watching Thor Hushovd’s solo breakaway and earlier; his lead-out man, Heinrich Haussler it becomes evident that; for those of us who are not natural-born climbers, the best ones to take advice from are the big “engines” who have to haul themselves over the huge climbs in the Alps and Pyrenees in order to have a shot at glory on the last day in Paris. Continue reading “Climbing tips, tricks, and advice”

Always be prepared!

No, this isn’t the big update I was talking about. And, no, that’s not a picture of me – but I imagine the frustration level of that rider and myself earlier today were somewhat similar as I stood on the side of River Road between St. Paul and Newberg, Oregon after 2 hours of fighting headwinds (Avg. heart rate: 168; time in upper zone: 1:32:38). Oh, and this was my second flat of the day! The first one happened about 7 minutes into the ride!

So, many of you who may be my regular customers have heard me talk about what I carry every time I ride. (Spare tube, patches, tire levers, combo CO2/mini-pump, 2 full CO2 cartridges, multi-tool, tire boot material.) Well, today, I needed everything; including something more!

The first flat was easy and I had the whole thing done in probably around 5 minutes. Remove the wheel, get the tube, find the hole (or holes in this case – double pinch flat), check the tire for other debris, install new tube, inflate, install wheel, get rolling. I’ve done it enough times it’s just a routine. The rest of the ride, while hard, went just fine. I was feeling good and beginning to think that I might have my zones set wrong on my monitor based on the amount of time I was spending in my upper zone and how good I was feeling. Then, while rolling through a shady spot at about 22 mph it happened – that stray piece of debris (which I think in this case was some metal strapping of some sort by the way it sounded; I never found it) hidden by the shade and made harder to see by the changing light and dark glasses (a beautifully sunny day here in the Willamette Valley). Instant flat – with a tire sidewall blowout!

Now, changing a flat when you’re 35 miles into a tough ride and pretty toasted is something that you want to have some practice at – because mentally you’re just not in a position to think on your toes. So I’m glad I’ve changed some 5-digit quantity of inner tubes thanks to my years as a mechanic, because that makes it pretty natural. But I discovered that my plan for booting a tire was fatally flawed. I had good material in my pack – re-purposed cloth Velox rim tape which is strong and has adhesive on the back to stick in place. I’ve put 800 miles on a Michelin tire with a Velox tire boot in it (I don’t recommend that by the way). The problem was – it was a complete roll: enough to cover one complete road rim – much more than I needed. And, I had nothing to cut it with.

DOH!

So, I’m going to amend my list of things you should always carry with you when you arrive based on today’s experience. That additional item – the “something more” mentioned above? Energy bars or gels!

I’ve done this in the past and I don’t know why it never occurred to me to add it to my list; but the foil wrappers used to package energy bars and gels is the perfect material for booting a tire. It has great tensile strength, easily conforms to different shapes, and is sizeable enought to cover a considerable amount of space inside the tire to keep the tube from pushing through the hole in the tire again.

Never booted a tire: Here’s how. You’re going to need to do this – sometime – if you’re riding a bike at all.

1) CARRY SOMETHING WITH YOU THAT YOU CAN USE AS A BOOT! High tensile strength that doesn’t tear easily under pressure: Velox tape, food wrapper, Tyvek race number or envelope segment or even a dollar bill (yup, I’ve done that once before too…) . Park Tool even makes adhesive tire boots made specifically for this purpose if you’re one who likes having the “right tool for the job”. I’ve read stories of people using leaves from the side of the road – to that I say: “b.s.!” That is a last resort only! I grew up in Idaho – there’s no leaves in high-desert, agrucultural, rural Idaho. Be prepared!

2) Find where the cut in the tire is – any cut larger or longer than 1/8″ needs to be booted. I know that’s small; but in a high-pressure road tire, that is enough for a tube to push through that hole.

3) Place the boot inside the tire. To me, this seems like common sense; but I’ve had a lot of people ask me where the boot goes. In or out? Here’s the deal: if the boot were outside it would either be abraded off the tire by the rotation on the road/path or be pushed off the tire by the hemrhoidal tube pushing back through the cut. By going inside the tire, it reinforces the casing of the tire and keeps the tube inside. This is why the boot material does not have to be adhesive – when applied to the right location the pressure of the tube against the tire holds it in place. This also is why the boot must be rather sizeable. Something the size of an inner-tube patch can move out of position or the tube can push around it and through that same hole/cut.

4) Finish repairing your flat as usual. For me, this involved actually getting my original tube and patching it – because the two sets of “snake-bites” from the pinch flats were smaller and easier to patch than the massive blowout I’d just experienced – which brings up my other new, big bit of advice on flat repair: KEEP THE OLD TUBE! You never know – that puncture might be easier to fix than the one you may have down the road. Yeah, some of you think it’s cool to throw your punctured tubes over tree branches or power lines. That is irresponsible on several levels; but that’s not what I’m talking about. When you have a massive, catastrophic puncture 25 miles down the road – you’ll be wishing you had that tube with the little pin-hole puncture that is now draped artistically across the power lines 75 minutes behind you.

So, today’s tally is: 3 tubes, 3 CO2 cartridges (that’s right – I carried extra), 4 Park Tool glueless patches, and 1 used Raspberry Hammer Gel pouch.

Before my next ride I’ll be cutting up some of that Velox I keep in my seat pack. I don’t carry scissors when I ride. Somehow, I connected “don’t run with scissors” to “don’t ride with scissors either”. But, If I’m in a pinch – I’ll always have a gel pouch with me – empty or full. Stopping to fix a blowout is a good time to fuel up anyhow!

I need more CO2 and patches next trip to the store…

Any other good flat-repair stories or ideas? Go ahead and leave a comment!

Thanks for reading! And, remember to drop back by Tuesday or Wednesday for big news…

Don’t believe everything you read…why published weights don’t matter.

This is one of my favorite topics. It annoys me to the core how much emphasis people will put so much “weight” (sorry, I had to) into companies’ claims of their bikes’ total weight. “Yeah, but this bike weighs x.xx lbs and this bike weighs x.xx lbs more…” blah, blah, blah… There’s an excellent example in one of the latest stories at cyclingnews.com.

The “New Arrivals” feature is one of my favorites that they run; as they receive some of the newest gear sooner than many other publications and it lets me know what to expect to see tests on in the near future. For example – I believe they’ve released the first comprehensive test of Sram Red. This time, they’re highlighting three top-end road bikes that have just rolled into their stable: the Jamis Xenith SL, Serotta HSG Carbon, and Isaac Sonic. All somewhat obscure bikes that you’re not likely to see in the bike shop on the corner or hear long discourses on at the next Saturday club ride. But the story provided some very interesting information; buried in the specifications list about each bike, that I think slipped by most people. The weights of the complete bikes, the weights of the frames, and the other details of the bikes’ builds. “Not exactly rocket surgery there, Matt.”
Right, but here’s what you’re missing: The total weight of the bike has recently become less about the frame and more about what parts are hung on that frame. The first read of this article for the average reader would lead them to believe that the Jamis, at 13.16 lbs (5.98 kg) is the clear leader in the weight game between these three and that the Isaac at 15.05 lbs (6.83 kg) is a very distant second with the Serotta a close third at a comparably hefty 15.89 lbs (7.21 kg). However a closer look reveals that the secret is in the builds. No, there’s not a big difference between the support kits (handlebars, stems, seatposts, etc…) and the component groups are not as disparaging in weight (Sram Red, Campagnolo Record, and Sram Force respectively) as are the complete bikes. So, what’s left…WHEELS!
I’ve long said that the first place to look when you see a vast difference in weight between two high quality bikes with similar builds is the wheels. That super-light bike is going to have tubular wheels on it 9 times out of 10. And, in this case it is true: The Jamis is fitted with Zipp 404 tubular wheels, which at 1252 grams are 230 grams lighter than the Zipp CSC wheels found on the Serotta and 330 grams lighter than the Campagnolo Neutron wheels on the Isaac. Put the Zipp 404 wheels on all three bikes and look what happens:

 

– Jamis Xenith SL: 13.16 lbs (5.98 kg)

 

– Isaac Sonic: 14.52 lbs (6.60 kg)

 

– Serotta HSG Carbon: 15.13 lbs (6.88 kg)

 

A much more telling and fair comparison. Then, look at the frame weights: Jamis: sub-900g; Isaac: 990 g; Serotta: over 3 lbs at 1500g. So, if the Jamis and the Isaac were built identically to each other; their weights would be within about 90 grams or about .2 lbs of each other while the Serotta would weigh almost 1 lb more. The Jamis and Isaac are a lot closer than they looked at first glance, huh? While the Serotta makes my full-steel Waterford R-33 look like a lightweight (my 59cm Waterford frame is .2 lbs lighter than the smaller Serotta frame).

 

So, don’t take all those published weights at face value. Anymore, just about any top-end frame can be made into a Superlight. Even my Waterford could be nearly 15 lbs with the right parts. Which leads me to one of my other favorite topics: Steel just isn’t heavy anymore!

Thanks for reading.

Buying online is treason!

When was the last time your favorite online bike parts bargain discounter:

Stayed late on a Friday night or came in early on Saturday morning (skipping the group ride) to fix your bike? Stood in the pouring rain or searing heat at the local charity ride to pump up tires and work last-minute miracles so that the ride can go on (and did it for FREE)? Volunteered their time to the local Boy Scout troop to help them earn their merit badges?

Gave free clinics to teach you what you need to know to enjoy your favorite sport? Answered all your questions, about any cycling-related topic, and didn’t hand you a bill afterward? Knew what size inner-tube your bike uses when you forgot? Do you need extended or standard valves? (Wait, they don’t ask…)

Caught that worn out part on your bike just before catastrophic failure, overnighted the part from the supplier, split the shipping charge with you, and then installed it the next day so you wouldn’t miss your ride – forsaking all the people who had brought their bikes in before you did – whom he then had to call and tell them that their bikes wouldn’t be ready on time?

Spent endless hours up to their elbows in degreaser, chain lube, fork oil and who-knows-what which was on that Tri-bike to keep you rolling smoothly down the road? Happily stood and endlessly explained over-and-over the differences between those two bike shorts? (No, you weren’t the first one to ask that day.) Didn’t hesitate to help a child pick out their first bicycle, just to see them smile?

This is all in an average day’s work at the average American bike shop.

Nobody working at your local bike shop is making a lot of money. Most of us drive beat-up old cars which are just a couple pay-checks away from getting the service done on them which they badly need. And that’s when business is good like it is now. You thought we rode our bikes to work because we love cycling? That’s only the first reason. The other reasons are that we’d rather not spend our hard earned cash on gas, and that if we don’t drive today that’s one more day some of us can keep our car out of the hands of the mechanic.

Our prices are set as low as we can set them and still be in business while paying our staff to serve you when you have a problem or question and pay rent and utilities on that store you like to hang out in. We do this because we love it. Some of us have been lucky enough to do it and make some money. But most of us do it to see children smile and our best clients lose weight, spend more time with their families, achieve a personal best on a century or win a race. And, most of us work way more hours than we should – simply because there’s just too much work to do and we don’t want to disappoint you.

The next time an online bicycle parts discounter shows up to do ride support for your favorite event, then you can feel good about your “bargain”. Until then, support your local bike shop; they’ll save your butt one day.

Oh, and you know who you are and we do too.

11/25/06 – Winter Riding “Must Haves”

So you’ve spent all summer and fall following your training schedule or working toward your goal of riding the MS150 and now that winter has come, you’re thinking “now what?”.

You’re not alone. We talk to many people every day who are in your shoes and come to us to look for the gear they need to make it through the winter and hit the road in better shape next spring. Whether you’re the hard-core rider who plans to ride outside as much as possible this winter or looking for ways to ride inside to beat the cold and darkness – we’ve got what you need. Here’s a quick and easy guide:

Inside:  For those wanting to stay inside, there’s some great options.
~The stationary trainer is the most popular way to maintain fitness and your schedule. Popular models from CycleOps, Kinetic, Elite, and Blackburn will meet your needs and give you options. A stationary trainer holds your bike by the rear axle while a resistance unit attached to a roller, which contacts your rear tire, provides the workout. Varied resistance units and types of resistance are the main ways that trainers vary from each other – but “fluid” resistance trainers are the most popular and the industry standard. When buying a trainer, also consider buying a Riser Block and Trainer Mat. The riser lifts your front wheel to the same level as your rear wheel (which is elevated by the trainer) for more comfortable riding. The CycleOps Climbing Riser Block ($29.99) has three levels to accomodate different sized tires or simulate a “climbing” riding position to correctly stimulate your climbing muscle groups.

The Trainer Mat is a persperation and lube proof mat which will protect the floors of your home from the sweat, chain lube, and dirt from your bike.

In addition, one thing that has annoyed long-time, loyal indoor trainer users has been tire wear. The higher-than-normal heat on your tires from the aluminum roller of the trainer causes your rear tire to wear exceptionally fast – especially if it is a lower-quality tire. Two tips: The Elite “Elastogel” trainers replace the aluminum roller with a high density elastomer (rubber) roller which dissipates heat better, doesn’t wear out your tires, reduces tire-slippage, and can be quieter than conventional aluminum trainers. Also, Continental Tire has created a tire specifically designed for use on stationary trainers. This yellow tire uses a harder, more heat resistant rubber compound with no carbon (which makes your tires black – and what comes off your tire while riding a trainer, causing wear and covering your bike, trainer, and floor with black stuff). The Home Trainer tire ($39.99) is a popular choice for our clients who like to use higher-quality tires on the road and don’t want to wear them out on the trainer. Many people will also choose to purchase a lower-quality rear wheel and gear cluster to use with the trainer tire so that they don’t have to constantly change tires when installing or removing their bike from the stationary trainer. This “trainer wheel” is a huge time-saver and very convenient when a nice day rolls around and you want to take your bike outside for a spin.

Another great choice for folks whose schedule is better suited to indoor riding during the winter is a stationary bike – now commonly known as a “Spin” bike. Spin bikes are great if you don’t want to subject your main bike to the wear, tear, sweat, and basic punishment of the stationary trainer. The LeMond RevMaster is our best seller and is a Gym-quality spin bike (found in many YMCA’s and rec-centers) which is great for home use. It’s nearly silent operation and infinitely adjustable fit options make it perfect for your home, where it will see multiple users; usually during the kid’s nap time! Because its so quiet, it is also perfect for setting up in front of a television for watching movies, news, or using training DVD’s like Spinnervals or CTS’s series of indoor training DVD’s (both also in stock at our stores).

Giant also makes two popular models: the Turbo, a lower-cost spin bike not unlike the RevMaster; and the DualFit which is nearly identical to the ubiquitous Schwinn Airdyne – only with higher-quality parts and construction. All of these are in stock at our stores. All come fully assembled and can be delivered in the Metro-Nashville area.

Outside: Now we get to my favorite part. I love riding in the winter! Our weather is mild enough that you really can ride year-round here – with the right gear: lights and a versatile mix of clothing to respond to our unpredictable winter weather. We’re so lucky here to have the great riding available to us that Middle Tennessee is known for – and the climate to enjoy it almost year round. Here’s some of the best items you can get for your money to help you expand your riding season.

A good “base layer” is essential. Keep your core warm and the rest of you will be warmer. Our favorite is the Craft Pro Zero. This base layer is woven a special way to help eliminate “hot spots” and move your body heat more evenly around your torso to keep you warm. It’s so warm, in fact, that I can’t stand to wear mine above 50 degrees! Pearl Izumi and Descente also make great base layers.

Gloves and shoe covers are probably our best selling winter items – as these extremities are the hardest to keep warm. We’ve found that, in our climate, the most important quality for either of these items is for them to be wind-proof. In our area, the wind is what seems to be the killer when it comes to getting cold. Keep the wind off and you’ll stay warmer. We keep a good supply of wind-proof gloves and shoe covers in stock along with the popular glove-liners, “lobster gloves”, and neoprene shoe covers.

Cycling tights are essential for riding below 50 degrees. It is a commonly-held belief that below 60-70 degrees you want to cover your joints to avoid damaging them, because they actually stop lubricating themselves below a certain temperature – especially your overly-active knees. Knee-warmers are suitable for use down to about 50; and are easy to carry along and remove/put-on mid-ride. But, below 50, you might as well wear full-leg tights unless you know the weather will warm up during your ride to above 65 or 70 degrees.

Most tights are a polyester blend, which wicks well to keep you dry, with a brushed fleece lining for loft and insulation. Commonly, cycling tights will not have a cycling pad, or chamois, in them – so you’ll wear your regular riding shorts under them for comfort. Buy a really good pair of tights and they’ll last you for years. I have a pair of Pearl Izumi ThermaFleece tights that are easilly 15 years old and still in good shape.

Jackets are a great way to keep the wind off your core so you can stay warm. More versatile than a long-sleeved jersey, a wind-breaker style cycling jacket is a great piece to have if you’re taking the minimalist route to winter riding gear. The cycling-specific cut of the jackets we sell is form-fitting to keep it from flapping around as you ride and to not limit movement. Cycling jackets also have a longer cut to the back to cover your lower back while in the forward-bent riding position, protecting you from wind and any water that may spray up off your back tire. The zippered front allows for great ventilation while climbing – and is easy to zip back up for the descent. A very popular option is a jacket that converts to a vest. The sleeves are removeable and packable to allow you to customize your wardrobe to changing conditions during the season or even a single ride. The Pearl Izumi Vagabond jacket uses a one-piece removeable sleeve section to make it easy to remove mid-ride and eliminate the annoying (but inevitable) situation of losing one sleeve – rendering your jacket useless. We stock all sizes and most colors.

Now, lights. Never, ever ride after dark without proper lighting. Never. Ever. Seriously. I don’t care how reflective your helmet, jacket, tights, shoes, reflectors, bike, wheels or pale skin might be – it is not only dangerous, it’s against the law. Bikes have to follow all the same rules as cars – including proper night-time illumination. Any bicycle-specific taillight is suitable. The more expensive ones are, in fact, brighter and easier for motorists to see, but a basic $12.99 taillight will do the trick and is safer than nothing. Sigma Sport makes a micro safety light – red for the front, white for the back – which is so small, you barely notice it (the picture at left is nearly to scale…) – but when switched on, it lets cars know you’re there. It’s also perfect as a secondary light – attached to your arm, helmet, or frame – to augment your higher powered lights. They’ve become very popular in our stores.

Serious, longer-distance riders will want to consider a brighter, higher-powered, rechargeable headlight system. These are more expensive than the battery-powered lights, but offer better illumination – making it actually possible to see obstacles in the road before you’ve run over them and bent a wheel or caused a flat. The NiteRider MiNewt LED system and the Sigma Sport EVO Pro Endurance Halogen system are my personal favorites for their reasonable cost, bright and wide light pattern, long battery life and reasonable cost. Both are about $160, but the Sigma comes with two battery packs – perfect for frequent nighttime riders.

In closing – theres a lot of information I haven’t covered here. Don’t hesitate to drop in to one of our stores for answers to any of the questions you may still have. The difference you’ll find in our stores is that we actually ride in the winter and know the gear first-hand. Also, join Allanti for our cult-classic Tuesday Night Ride – only held in winter. We leave the Brentwood store every Tuesday at 7:00 p.m. for 22 miles of fun. Call for more details.
Thanks for reading!

1/27/07 – More Buyer Beware

The internet is an amazing place which has presented us with new oportunities in many different areas of life and business – and created entirely new concepts that we weren’t familiar with even 5 years ago. I mean, who knew what a “blog” was in 2001?

But, as with most things in life; with new opportunity comes new responsibility. E-commerce, while it accounts for only a small percentage of all commerce in the United States (which is the little-known fact that the “dot-coms” don’t want you to know), is becoming an increasingly fertile platform for scam artists and fraud.

I’ve written on a couple of occasions about internet fraud in our industry; and in spite of increased effort by bicycle brands and distributors to police the exchange of their goods online and increased awareness by reputable retailers – internet fraud involving the sales of bicycles and bicycle-related goods is becoming more and more pervasive.

Just today I recieved an e-mail from someone who visited our store – doing due diligence – to research an advertised sale of a bike on e-bay. After visiting our store to get our opinion and then going home to do some further research, here’s what he told me via e-mail:

“I was the guy at your shop today asking about that Litespeed Tuscany. We were looking at the web site and questioning the legitimacy of the offer. It turns out that it was a hoax. Apparently these guys try to clean out your paypal account on ebay. I reported them to ebay security. I felt like [a jerk] being in your shop asking for information about another bike. You guys answered my questions with class. I have the bug to get a new bike and hope to do so through your shop soon. I’ll leave ebay alone.” Continue reading “1/27/07 – More Buyer Beware”

10/12/06 – Sharing the Road? What are Cyclists’ Rights?

It seems that more now than ever I’m hearing stories of awkward and occasionally violent meetings between cyclists and motorists. There’s the things we’ve all encountered – honking, yelling, maybe you’ve even had things thrown at you. But lately there’s been swerving, verbal exchanges at traffic lights, and intentional screeching of brakes. In fact, WKRN ran a news story just weeks ago as a part of their “I’m ticked off!” series about motorists frustrations with cyclists in rural Nashville. How far is too far?

Actually, our real questions should be; What is fueling these incidents and how do we extinguish the flame? Are motorists just intolerant or are we cyclists provoking them? What can we do to improve this situation?

Well, educating all motorists on the rights of cyclists and telling them to back off would take a very long time and would be quite ineffective; even though some of them probably need to hear it. However, we cyclists can learn our rights and the responsibilities that accompany those rights and become smarter, more considerate cyclists and hope that we can change the hearts of the motorists in our area. So, where do we begin?

First, the best resource for finding your rights and responsibilities as a cyclist in most states is: http://massbike.org/bikelaw/statelaws.htm. This website links to other online resources which reference the driver’s code for most states and even some territories of the U.S. The listing for the state of Tennessee is very thorough and clear and is worth a read; whether to discover your rights and responsibilities for the first time or to refresh your memory. Continue reading “10/12/06 – Sharing the Road? What are Cyclists’ Rights?”