Road Cycling Blog

Ride Report: First Spring Rides on the Waterford

It hasn’t been a particularly nasty winter or spring – so perhaps this is more of a admission to how little I am riding right now (sad, I know). But, for the first time since fall I have been able to get the Waterford; my main steed (or ”sunny-day go-fast bike”) out twice to stretch her legs. It was a wonderful thing to be back on my main machine after riding the single-speed ‘cross bike any time I was able to sneak away for a quick spin.

That ride revealed some wonderful things that I thought were worth sharing. Perhaps I feel that way because I am newly inspired again and doped up on natural vitamin D. Perhaps these were legitimate mini-revelations. Perhaps I am merely scraping the bottom of the barrel for writing material. Whichever the case – it is my blog so you are going to read about it anyway… 🙂

Lame attempts at humor aside; I felt there was a few things worth writing about. Some of which will come in this post – some in subsequent posts. Here’s a quick index:

First road test of the Shimano RS-80’s I got this fall. Like I said; I’ve been on the single-speed…sad, huh? However, I am now certain in my choice for new every-day wheels.

New Clif Shot Gel road test. Hmmm; after years of using Hammer Products I am now having to search for alternatives. Read more about that soon.

I am also testing Endurox R4 recovery drink after almost a decade of using Hammer Recoverite. Review coming soon.

My habitual spring shake-down of all my components…made significant by the fact that my Waterford will celebrate it’s 10th birthday this October! Keep reading for more… Continue reading “Ride Report: First Spring Rides on the Waterford”

How to Prevent your Bike from Being Stolen

How to Prevent your Bike from Being Stolen In the UK a bike is stolen on average every minute, with less than 6% being returned. Research studies show that cyclists are more likely to have their bicycle stolen than car owners or motorcyclists. Bicycle theft has also doubled since the 1990’s. A good combination of equipment, common sense and a bit of luck will ultimately help keep your ride exactly where you left it.

Bicycle Lock

An unlocked bicycle is the most common reason a bike gets stolen; it acts as an invitation for a thief to steal and only takes a few seconds to do so. Never leave your bicycle unlocked, under no circumstances!
A poor quality lock can easily be broken. It pays to invest in a high quality lock, usually around £30-£50. It’s a smart idea to lock your bicycle to something immovable or for maximum protection use two locks.

Parking

It’s a good idea to lock your bike in a public area where there are lots of people around. Most train stations and public buildings have designated areas for bikes with bicycle racks. Plan ahead and check out the facilities in the places you are planning to leave your bicycle.
When at home it’s still important to lock your bicycle, in the garage is the safest place for your bike. If you don’t have a garage, you could invest in a ground anchor, allowing you to attach it securely to the wall or a concrete floor. Keep your bike out of view, as it could act as in incentive to break into your property.

Another idea is to lock it next to better bikes, so it appears less valuable to those surrounding it, so is less likely to be targeted. Continue reading “How to Prevent your Bike from Being Stolen”

Tubular Tire Removal – A Quick Guide

I was removing some cyclocross tubulars today and (after removing the front tire) I realized that there is a proliferation of information and guides online about gluing tubular tires and about removing glue from tubular rims – but not a lot about actually removing the tires.

So I decided to do something about that!

Some of the reason there is not a lot out there about tubular tire removal is that it really can be pretty simple and the best tool you can have is raw effort. But, it never hurts to apply a few tips along the way, right?

(The photos are large – click for super-size detail view)

Step 1: Where to start –

Give yourself some time; nothing should be done with haste when it comes to tubular tires. If you’re in a hurry to remove them; you’re probably in a hurry to glue them. Gluing “tubi” tires in a hurry results in a garbage glue job and rolled tires.

I like to begin on the opposite side of the wheel from the valve stem and work my way around the wheel using my thumbs to push the tire from the base tape away from the rim.

This may partially be habit from removing clincher tires; but it has practical purposes too. The valve acts as an anchor point in the rim and will cause that portion of the tire to resist being pushed away from the rim.

I start at the point furthest away and work in both directions around the wheel, pushing more of the tire away from the rim as I go.

Once you’ve gone all the way around on one side – flip the wheel around and repeat on the other side; starting opposite the valve stem. You should work both sides until only the center portion of the base tape is still glued to the tire bed of the rim. Continue reading “Tubular Tire Removal – A Quick Guide”

3 Maintenance Tips for Servicing Your Bicycle

Another guest post; this time from Kelly Holmes, from Australia. Kelly offers some good tips here on taking care of your machine. I’m loving the different perspective that these guest posts bring and hope you are too. Learn more about Jamie at the end of the article. Enjoy.

If you have a bicycle that you depend on regularly for exercise or transportation, it is important for you to take good care of your bike so that it will last. There are plenty of things that you can do in order to maintain your bicycle, and taking this time can help improve your bike’s performance and ensure that it will last you for many years. In fact, you might be surprised by just how well your bicycle will work and just how long you can keep it in good condition by performing this regular maintenance, and it only takes a few minutes every once in a while in order to maintain your bike. In fact, these three maintenance tips can work wonders for your bike, and you can perform all of them at home.

Take Care of Your Bicycle’s Chain

Your bicycle’s chain is an essential part of your bicycle, and a rusty or dirty chain can make it difficult for you to ride it. Fortunately, it is easy to take care of your bicycle’s chain. Every now and then, clean any dirt and grime that has accumulated on your chain off, and make sure the chain is well-lubricated. This is one of the most essential parts of keeping your bicycle in top-notch condition.

Check Tire Pressure

Keeping your tires well-inflated can make a world of difference in how easy it is to ride your bicycle. Along with making it easier to pedal, it can also protect your bike’s rims and can make your tires last longer. Over-inflated tires can also cause problems. Fortunately, it is easy to check your bicycle’s tire pressure. The recommended air pressure of your bike’s tires should be printed on the side of the tire, and a simple tire gauge will make it easy for you to check the pressure. Once you have determined how much air is in your tires, you can inflate your tire to the proper pressure. Doing so on a regular basis can make a major difference in your bicycle riding experience and can help prevent damage to your tires. Continue reading “3 Maintenance Tips for Servicing Your Bicycle”

7 Tips For Staying Safe While Cycling

While cycling is generally regarded to be a relatively safe sport, accidents still happen and they can be nasty if you aren’t prepared for the worst. Here are 7 top tips to help you stay safe while out on your ride.

Always Wear An Approved Helmet

Helmets are subjected to stringent testing in order to meet the Australian Standards guidelines for safety. Don’t be fooled by cheap imitations that you can buy from overseas, unless it carries the Australian Standards sticker then chances are it will not be safe for road use. Fit is also crucial in ensuring the safety of your head during a potential impact. It should be snug but not too tight, and mustn’t move around when you try it on.

Invest In Road Lighting

If you ride at night, it is essential to fit lights to both the front and rear of your bike. Super bright LED’s are the most popular choice, and will ensure that all other road users will be able to see you. These can even be useful during the day as an extra safety precaution.

Armour For Off-Road

Mountain biking is an exhilarating aspect of cycling, however due to the varied terrain and obstacles, it can also be the most dangerous. Investing in good body armour can protect you from serious injury, and significantly reduces the risk of broken bones. The best styles are made from high tensile yet breathable mesh with the armour plates stitched over key areas, and a back protector built in for extra support. They are so light and comfortable that you will barely even notice it’s there! Continue reading “7 Tips For Staying Safe While Cycling”

Shimano RS-80 C24: First Impressions

The natural progression continues…

As it stands at the time of publishing this post; two of my most popular pages are my reviews on the Shimano WH-7850-c24-cl wheelset and the Shimano WH-6700 Tubeless wheelset. I am anticipating that this one will join their ranks rather quickly.

The RS-80 c24, much like the WH-6700 Ultegra Tubeless is a allegorical “shot-across-the-bow” at other major players in the road wheel market. With both of these wheels Shimano is basically saying: “We’re doing this be cause we’re Shimano and we can.” Not that other providers cannot; just that they either don’t have the guts or capital (or both) to pull it off without serious stress or anxiety. These wheels possess features of higher priced wheels at prices that you just don’t find from the competition. In the case of the RS-80 c24, those features would be light-weight carbon-laminate rims at a price usually below $900. The rims are so light in fact that you cannot get much lighter without going to a full-carbon rim and sacrificing the superior braking of the aluminum brake track.

The RS-80 c24 can be thought of as the “Ultegra” version of the Dura Ace c24-cl. It uses the same rim but merely swaps in a lower grade hub to result in a significantly lower cost and slightly higher weight. Here’s the cost/benefit analysis:

Weight:
~Dura Ace (7900-c24-cl): 1395 grams
~RS-80 c24: 1516 grams
~ Difference: 121 grams (only 24 grams in front)

Retail Prices:
~Dura Ace: $1300
~RS-80 c24: $900
~ Difference: $400

All that for just a simple difference in hubs and spoke threading…

In my book; that’s a pretty good trade-off. Not to knock the Dura Ace wheels, they’re great and if you read the original review I gave them you’ll remember that I raved about them and would love to have a set. Well, several years later and now I’m not just a father of 1 boy, but now 3 boys… well, let’s just say that I’m now that guy who can’t justify paying more for some things just because it says Dura Ace on it if the performance is close enough. And those 121 grams: I gained more weight from eating the ham, turkey, and cheese sandwich and crackers I had at lunch – if I really get serious then I’ll lose 121 grams myself faster than you can say WH-7900-c24-cl AND I’ll have more money in my pocket! So as far as I’m concerned – I finally got my wish and have the wheels I wanted. Continue reading “Shimano RS-80 C24: First Impressions”

Cheap and Easy Speed?

If you have arrived here looking for stimulants – sorry to disappoint. We don’t do that here: this is a doping free zone.

However; if your search is one of looking for “marginal gains” (as the British Cycling Federation has so famously been quoted lately) I may be of assistance.

I’ve highlighted some articles here before that speak of new testing facilities that have aimed to put some quantitative and objective data behind some of the qualitative speculation many of us cyclists have followed for decades. Most recently; Friction Facts’ founder, Jason Smith in Boulder, Colorado has set about doing just that.

Jason has competed in cycling – most notably as an XTERRA triathlon athlete – and so his interest in marginal gains is a natural one. Once you begin matching yourself against other athletes you observe just how big of a difference a few small percentage points here and there can make over the course of an event. His educational and professional backgrounds in materials engineering and measurement devices respectively also has equipped him with the knowledge to begin to scientifically test and quantify some of the gains that can be had by small changes on your bike.

Here’s a few of his findings:

3-watt difference between two of the most commonly available new chains
1.5w savings by changing pulleys
1+w savings by switching to and from certain pedals
5 w increase in friction when using a popular chain lubricant compared to the factory treatment

Curious to me is the observation that by some of our hap-hazard choices in equipment and maintenance we can cancel out small gains in one area with a poorly informed choice in another. If we use the above examples as an equation: we could have had a 5.5 watt gain if we’d have only used a different chain lubricant. Instead; we are left with an imperceptible 0.5 watt advantage. Similarly; something as simple as correct derailleur pulley selection can save you up to 6 seconds per hour of racing (at 250 watts average). Jason, I am intrigued.

Smith is also interested in developing some products – which he appears to be selling at an almost zero profit margin once you factor in labor – to provide his followers with the advantages he has discovered. One example is his “UltraFast” chain. Ingredients: the fastest chain he has tested (Shimano Dura Ace 7901) which is ultrasonically cleaned and then treated with his custom lubricant blend ( Paraffin wax, pure PTFE Teflon, and molybdenum sulfide). He claims this produces the lowest consistently measurable friction loss of everything he has tested. Hard to argue with that!

The UltraFast treatment is also available as an “Optimizing Service” where he will treat your chain with the same process for $39 (convenient if you use Campagnolo components and the 7901 chain is not compatible with your drivetrain).

Smith views himself as the “Consumer Reports for cyclists” saying: “I buy everything myself – there’s no advertising on the site and I don’t plan on advertising. I hope I can make a little bit of money because I really enjoy doing it.”

I know that I’ll be anxiously awaiting more data from Jason and I would love to test one of his chains one day. You know that if that happens you’ll be sure to read about it here!

Matching Bike Fit to a Second Bike

MULTIPLE BIKE BLUES

If you’re fortunate enough to have multiple bicycles; tell me if this sounds familiar: You have spent endless time and possibly funds perfecting the position on your main bicycle. It’s flawless. You feel like you could ride on it all day, in all conditions without pain – and then get on it again tomorrow and do it all over.

Then you get on the other bike. And, while you’ve taken some measurements and tried to match it up to the first one – stuff still isn’t right. It could be any number of things that you don’t experience on the first bike: Maybe your knees hurt, you have hand numbness, get saddle sores, have after-ride headaches, or just plain don’t feel as strong or fast. Maybe it is something else entirely. Whatever it is, you know something isn’t right in spite of your effort to fix it. What now?

In a similar post; I gave you an outline of some different bike fit symptoms, what may be causing them, and potentially how to fix it. Ultimately; the underlying theme though was to seek the help of a qualified and professional fitter. I’m going to do a similar thing here: walk through the bike’s contact-points and offer some suggestions; but the help of a professional is still priceless here and many shops offer services to help match the riding position between multiple bikes for less cost than having each one fitted individually.

That said: let’s move on. Bikes can seemingly be set up to fit identically when you measure them; but there are a variety of small details that govern why your body may not be sliding into the same position when you ride the others. Let’s take a look, starting with some standards:

FIRST, ESTABLISH WHAT IS CORRECT; THEN MEASURE AND DOCUMENT IT

Honestly, I could write volumes on measuring a bike to document a riding position. Perhaps if I get enough requests in the comments I’ll actually sit down and outline my process and post it – but you’ll have to be patient because my fitting charts document no fewer than 22 data points and detail is critical because we’re talking about millimeters here… Continue reading “Matching Bike Fit to a Second Bike”

How To Buy the Right Cycling Shoes

Some may have read my guide on helmets, and if you are in that group you will likely find this guide a little familiar. It’s just because I’m getting lazy and I don’t feel like writing more – so I just copy and pasted the content below. Just replace the word helmet with shoe and you’ll be good. Have fun!

Kidding! It’s not because I’m lazy, it’s because the theory is actually pretty similar. Both items are something that you’ll wear potentially for hours at a time and how well they fit will determine whether you’re distracted and have a miserable ride or can enjoy your ride without thinking about your gear. (I’ve said before that the right gear is the kind you don’t notice. Saddles, shorts, gloves, helmets and yes: shoes.

First – I wrote about pedal and shoes systems a long, long time ago. It’s a pretty concise yet comprehensive post that addresses some of the terms, jargon, and general knowledge that I leave unexplained in this particular guide. If you are new to clipless pedal and shoes systems – start with that post first, then come back to this one.

I do want to reiterate one thing from my above mentioned post on shoes and pedals and that is this: Choose your shoes first and then choose among the many pedal options that are compatible with that shoe. In my opinion; picking pedals before shoes is putting the cart before the horse. By choosing a pedal first you limit your options with shoes for the intended use. For example: for bike touring you’ll spend almost all of your time riding on pavement; so you might choose a road pedal for that purpose. Then when you go to pick your shoe you’ll find that most if not all of the models you have to choose from do not feature a recessed cleat and therefore are difficult to walk in. The pedal is important, but only has to work for you while you are riding and will never have to do anything for you when you are not on your bike. Continue reading “How To Buy the Right Cycling Shoes”

Road Frame Testing: Interesting Video

Giant has posted a video explaining frame testing protocol within the bicycle industry and it is really rather fascinating.

You have to wade through a bit of manufacturer propaganda, but many of us have heard it all before (and I rather like Giant’s road bikes) so it’s not that bad. Once you sift through the subjectivity you’ll see that there are some cold hard facts and some interesting insights into how all these data points that we are bombarded with are actually created – and why some companies test the way they do.

So, have a peek and see what you learn – I’ll bet there’s something new in there you didn’t know before. Enjoy: